Hull and running gear.

As received, the hull requires to be strengthened and straightened, then brought to the correct beam size. With this in mind a series of horizontal stretchers with strengthing for the hull sides are being glued into place.

A total of 12 of these are required to bring the hull to the correct shape. These stretchers also have their top edge formed to provide the correct deck camber.

The next picture shows the majority of the stretchers and hull strengthing in place; also the platform for the batteries, electronics and motors is cemented into the bottom of the hull at this stage.

Making a start installing the propeller shafts:

These were installed prior to finishing the aft section of stretchers and strengthening, to give more room for working in the bottom of the hull. Careful measuring is required here "measure three times, cut once"!

The shafts and supports were installed with glass reinforced resin used in plentiful quantities!

The picture shows the Starboard prop shaft and supports in place.

Note: final sanding and filling still to be carried out at this point.

Both propeller tubes and support brackets along with the rudder tubes installed at this stage.

Note the angle of the rudder tubes: this is important and requires to be accurate.

The rudder servo box, servo and linkages in place, with final stretchers and hull strengthening being installed in the aft section.

It was noticed when first inspecting the hull that the stern section was not of the correct shape.

A property of GRP is its ability to be manipulated when supple - this requires it to be immersed in boiling water for a short period.

The picture shows the hull upturned in a bowl of boiling water; this enabled the shape of the stern to be corrected prior to installing the final strengthing across the fantail.

Installing the motors:

A small problem occoured with the installation of the motors - the propeller shaft angle is very shallow in this model and direct coupling of the Torpedo 850 motoers is not practical.

Belt driving the motors was a simple solution and required a trip to the workshop where suitable pullies were fabricated from aluminium; the motor mounts are tilted to bring the two shafts parallel.

Between the motors and the rudder servo was an ideal place for the speed controller. This was provided with a suitable commercial heat sink; while this was perhaps a little on the large side, it did help with the overall ballast.

Forward of the battery section and directly beneath the bridge superstructure is the receiver installation, along with a voltage regulator panel.

This entire unit can be removed from the hull by removing two nuts and bolts and lifting away.

It was decided to make the forward 4.5in. Mk8 gun turret traverse from side to side and for the barrel to elevate and depress.

The picture shows a simple mechanism devised to do both jobs.

It's perhaps worth noting that this mechnism requires to be very reliable as access to it is impossible, once fitted, without the removal of the forward deck.

With most of the main and heavy components fitted into the hull, it was thought prudent to try a preliminary waterline test.

The picture shows this taking place with the waterline being marked with blue tape.

It was quickly discovered that the prefered battery arangment was too heavy for the model.

A decision was made to revise the battery layout and type.

A start is made on carving out and fitting the hull stabilisers.

The picture shows the starboard stabiliser in place; these were made from 3mm and 1mm plywood laminated together, carved and  sanded to shape.

Making a start on the sonar flat.

It was decided that this would be fitted out and painted with as much detail as possible, even though this will be completely covered by the flight deck, and can only be viewd via the cutouts in the stern.

To this end, LED lighting will be installed.

The Sonar flat, fitted out and painted, ready for the flight-deck to be fitted.

Fitting the flight deck.

This required copious use of heavy weights and gaffer tape to ensure the deck conformed to the camber.

Making a start on Hull painting - not the author's favourite job!

After various discussions it has become apparent painting is not everyone's favourite job.

Much has been said and written about how models should be painted: the author prefers the "paint as you build" method.

Here we see the first coats of Classic Red antifouling being applied to the hull.

With the red antifouling on, next comes the black waterline.

Here we see the hull masked up and the first coat of Satin black being applied. The junction between the red and black is masked with lining tape to eliminate creep.

Putting the main deck in place.

The main deck was prepaired by removing material from underneath the superstructure modules.

The picture shows the main deck being fixed into position using very heavy weights to make the deck conform with the camber of the bulkheads.

The deck was fixed in three separate sections: the adhesive on each section was allowed to cure for 12 hours before moving on.

With the deck in place the hull was masked up and the picture shows the first application of Light Grey paint to the upper hull sides.

The hull completely painted.